Climbing the Normal Route of Cavall Bernat: A Montserrat Experience
Meeting the Clients
On that September Friday morning, the meeting point is the Montserrat monastery, under the protective shadow of the majestic basilica. The clients arrive on time, their backpacks filled with anticipation and a hint of nervousness visible in their eyes.
After introductions and a quick coffee at the monastery café, I begin the briefing. I briefly explain the plan for the day: the approach via the Escales dels Pobres, climbing the normal route of Cavall Bernat with a mandatory difficulty of V+, and the rappel descent. The faces show a blend of excitement and respect for the adventure ahead.
Thorough Equipment Check
Before setting off, we head to a quiet spot near the Abat Oliva square to review the equipment. As the lead guide, I meticulously check every item:
Group equipment: Two 60-meter ropes, eight quickdraws including some longer ones to avoid rope rub on the second pitch, rescue gear, a mobile phone for emergencies, and a first aid kit.
Individual equipment: Well-maintained harnesses, certified helmets, climbing shoes suited for each climber, anchoring points, and belay devices. I pay particular attention to ensuring that harnesses fit well and helmets provide proper protection.
I take this moment to explain basic safety techniques: how to tie a proper climbing knot, use the belay device, and the communication signals we will use during the climb. The initial tension eases as the clients become familiar with the gear.
Approach via the Escales dels Pobres
We leave the Abat Oliva square following signs toward the Escales dels Pobres. This historic path is named after a house that once sheltered the poor and wanderers.
While ascending roughly one thousand stone steps, I share various aspects of the mountain. The flora of Montserrat is surprisingly rich for a mountain that at first glance may seem arid. Holm oak forests dominate the landscape, characterized by species such as holm oak (*Quercus ilex*) and boxwood (*Buxus sempervirens*). The massif hosts over 1,200 plant species, including endemic ones like the Queen's Crown (*Saxifraga catalaunica*), unique in the world, growing on the cliffs at the mountain's summit.
Regarding geology, I explain how the Montserrat massif formed about 40 or 50 million years ago. The mountain mainly consists of conglomerates or puddingstones, sedimentary rocks made of rounded pebbles cemented by calcium carbonate. This material was deposited when the area was occupied by a large alluvial fan. Differential erosion between hard rocks (conglomerates) and softer rocks (clays and sandstones) created the characteristic needle and notch shapes defining Montserrat's landscape.
We reach the famous Pas dels Francesos, a narrow passage between rocks equipped with steep steps.
Arrival at the Route Base and Preparation
After about an hour of approach, we reach the base of Cavall Bernat. The clients are impressed by this 1,110-meter-high pinnacle, known for its almost perfect phallic shape. The first ascent was made by Josep Boix, Josep Costa, and Carles Balaguer on October 27, 1935.
We set up our gear at the base while I explain the route. The normal route has four pitches, with the second being the hardest, featuring a short and quite polished V+ traverse. Everything is well secured with bolts and old hardware that seem “bomb-proof".
I assign roles: I will lead all pitches, and each client will climb second, belayed from above.
Nervousness and Overcoming the V+ Traverse
The first pitch is more a continuation of the approach, with easy scrambling of grade II-III until reaching a ledge with a tree. The clients climb confidently, adapting well to vertical movement.
But on the second pitch, nerves appear. The V+ traverse is short but quite polished from repetitions. The smooth rock and exposure make some clients hesitate.
“Breathe deeply,” I say from the belay station. “Trust your climbing shoes and look for the best footholds. The rock is well protected.” With patience and constant encouragement, everybody manage the move. The explosion of joy once we reache the belay is contagious. “I couldn’t believe it!” she exclaims.
The Emotion of the Summit and Photo with La Moreneta
The last two pitches are easier, allowing enjoyment of the climb and spectacular scenery. At the summit, emotion is indescribable. The space is small but sufficient for the group.
Waiting for us is the image of the Virgin of Montserrat, La Moreneta. This artificial stone statue was installed on June 10, 1946, and later replaced with an aluminum one in 1959. It’s an emotional moment when each client takes a photo next to La Moreneta, with breathtaking views over the Montserrat massif and beyond.
From the summit, scattered hermitages can be seen across the mountain, the Pyrenees on clear days, and all the Catalan plain. The feeling of having overcome personal limits and standing in such an iconic place is extraordinary.
The Rappel Descent
The descent is made via the southern side following the same normal route. We first rappel about 20 meters from La Moreneta’s station down to the summit of the known bump of Cavall. Then a second rappel of 45 meters lowers us through the bump’s crack to a gully with a holm oak tree.
This is a tense moment for clients, especially those who have never done rappelling. I explain in detail the technique: controlling speed with the brake hand, keeping legs apart and straight, and how to communicate during descent.
One by one, they descend under my constant instructions from below. The confidence gained during the climb helps them overcome this new experience. Relief is evident when we all reach solid ground.
The Return and Talks on the Hermit Life
On the way back to the monastery, I share a fascinating aspect of Montserrat: the hermit life that characterized the mountain for centuries. We pass by the ruins of the Santa Anna hermitage and I explain its historical importance.
The Santa Anna hermitage was built in 1498 by Abbot Cisneros with help from Infanta Joana of Aragon. It was considered the “parish of all” other hermitages and had the largest church in the hermitage area, with a choir of twelve seats where hermits gathered on Sundays and feast days. Hermit life flourished mainly between the 15th and 18th centuries, with up to twelve hermitages scattered across the mountain.
We also glimpse the Sant Antoni hermitage in the distance, considered the most solitary due to its location on the left bank of the Santa Maria torrent. Rebuilt in 1490, this hermitage perfectly overlooked the north, east, and south faces of the mountain, offering spectacular views of Cavall Bernat.
I explain how the hermit’s life was extraordinarily harsh and contemplative. They lived in solitude, dedicated to prayer and meditation, in shelters that included an oratory, retreat cell, kitchen, cistern, and often a small garden. Garcia de Cisneros’ reform established specific rules for hermits, turning them into true monks under the abbot’s authority.
Hermit life ended definitively with the French War (1808–1814), when Napoleonic troops destroyed most hermitages. Nevertheless, the contemplative spirit and search for God in mountain solitude remain a fundamental part of Montserrat’s spirituality.
Thanks and Farewell
Back at the monastery by mid-afternoon, the clients are visibly tired but deeply satisfied. Their faces reflect a mix of physical exhaustion and spiritual fulfillment.
As a guide, I feel deeply fulfilled. Not only have we achieved the sport goal of climbing Cavall Bernat, but also the ability to connect people with nature, history, and maybe with themselves.
The serrated mountain rises before us, majestic and eternal, waiting for the next team to seek its challenges and rewards. And I, as always, will be there to accompany them on this unique journey between rock and sky.